Saida, known in English as Sidon, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Located on the Mediterranean coast about 40 km south of Beirut, Saida in south Lebanon sits in a region that feels noticeably different from the capital and the Christian north.
If you want to see something beyond Beirut — beyond the elegant Byblos and Batroun — you can head to Saida (Sidon in English, or Sidon Lebanon as it appears in most historical sources) or to Tyre, both on the Mediterranean coast. The difference is that this area is home to Hezbollah sympathizers, and the atmosphere is noticeably different from the Christian region north of the capital.
Beirut - Sidon Lebanon
From Beirut, getting to Sidon is easy — take the local minibuses from the Cola intersection, the city's informal main bus hub, and ask for Saida.
As soon as you leave, you'll notice the difference from the north: trash everywhere. That part of Beirut looks the same — plastic bottles tossed from cars, scattered along the roads, never picked up by anyone.
When you arrive in Sidon, it's more of the same — trash on the beach, trash in the streets, trash everywhere. Plastic bags floating in the water next to the Crusader castle, just to remind you where you are.
Saida Sea Castle (Sidon Sea Castle)
The Saida Sea Castle, also known as the Sidon Sea Castle, is small and has an unusual silhouette. It was built right at the water's edge — the best possible position — even if it no longer guards anything now except the arrival of tourists.
It was constructed in 1228 AD by the Knights of the Order of Saint John (Hospitallers) to control the coastline, defend the port of Sidon, and prevent seaborne raids.
In 1291, when the Mamluks from Egypt conquered much of the Crusader territories, they partially destroyed the castle to prevent Christians from reclaiming control of the coast. Later, under Mamluk rule and during the Ottoman period, repairs and additions were made. In the 17th century, local rulers like Fakhr al-Din II restored sections of the castle.
Because the small castle sits on a tiny islet very close to shore, in the port of Sidon, a causeway of approximately 80 meters was built across the water from the shore to the fortification.
Before the medieval construction, the site had been home to Phoenician temples dedicated to local deities like Melqart.
The castle is now a tourist attraction: you pay a $3 USD entry fee and walk around, including along the walls. It offers some nice views of the city, but I'd recommend stopping at the nearby restaurant as well.
Useful info: entry fee is $3 USD, cash only.
The Saida Soap Museum (Audi Soap Factory)
From the Saida Sea Castle I made my way through the souq toward another castle, and along the way I stumbled upon the Saida Soap Museum. Sidon was an important commercial hub between east and west, and among its prized export goods was soap, which traveled from Sidon to Damascus, Istanbul, and other Mediterranean ports.
The building that now houses the museum is a former soap factory belonging to the Audi family, restored in the late 1990s, though the space itself is much older — dating back to around the 17th century.
Inside you'll find old soap-making equipment: large copper vats where the mixture was boiled, wooden molds for pouring, special knives for cutting the blocks, and areas where the bars were left to dry for weeks at a time. The museum occupies an elegant, well-kept building — a sharp contrast to the chaos of the souq outside.
Useful info: entry fee is $4 USD.
Saint Louis Castle
The Saint Louis Castle in Sidon Lebanon is a ruin perched on a modest hill, not far from the Soap Museum. Unlike the Saida Sea Castle, this one is not open to the public and appears to be in much worse shape.
The castle was built in 1254 by the Crusaders, during the time when Louis IX of France was in the Levant during the Crusades.
Beneath it, traces of Phoenician and Roman occupation have been found.
The Souq
From the second castle you can make your way through the labyrinthine souq. It reminded me a lot of the Medina in Fez — Sidon has the same narrow alleys, many of them vaulted, lined with old buildings in varying states of disrepair.
Even though it's a Muslim city now, there's a Christian church tucked inside the souq. Occasionally a woman would pass by without a headscarf, but in general I felt a little like an outsider there — not unsafe, just out of place.
Walking past a simple, local restaurant, I stopped in my tracks. They had foul, a classic Levantine dish, and it seemed like exactly the right place to have lunch: a plain table, no pretense, with a view of the secondhand clothes being sold next door. It doesn't get more authentic than that.
Useful info: the meal cost $3 USD.
Khan al-Franj
When you exit the souq, you reach Khan al-Franj, also known as the "Inn of the Franks." It was built in the 17th century during the reign of Fakhr al-Din II, the local ruler who sought to open Lebanon to European trade.
Part of the building is now managed by the French Institute of Lebanon and has been turned into a cultural space hosting exhibitions, concerts, and events. You can visit for free — there was someone at the entrance who greeted me with bienvenue, and a few Levantine cats.
Useful info: entry is free.
Other Places in Saida
Debbane Palace (Qasr Debbane), Corniche (the coastal promenade), Hammam Al-Jadeed, Temple of Eshmun (nearby, just outside Saida), Hill of Murex (Murex Hill).
Things to Do in Saida
If you're spending a day in Saida, south Lebanon, the main stops are the Sea Castle, the Soap Museum, Saint Louis Castle, Khan al-Franj, and the old city souq. A few hours are enough to cover the core of the old city on foot.
Where to Stay in Saida, Lebanon
Most visitors come to Saida as a day trip from Beirut. If you want to stay overnight, there are a handful of small hotels in Saida, Lebanon.
Getting from Beirut to Saida
You can get to Saida by public transport. From the Cola intersection in Beirut there are frequent minibuses heading there and further on to Tyre. The fare is $1.50 or $2 USD depending on the operator.
A few hours are enough to see Saida — if you set out early, you'll have time for Tyre as well.
